Hospitality in Iraq: a tradition that forms part of its identity
When we think about Travel to Iraq, Naturally, the first image that springs to mind is of a land steeped in history. Babylon, the ancient cities of Mesopotamia, the ziggurats, the southern marshes or the streets of Baghdad often steal the show. However, there is something that rarely appears in travel guides and that, without exception, ends up becoming the most treasured memory for those who discover this fascinating country: the hospitality of its people.
After accompanying numerous Spanish groups on my travel to Iraq, I can say that there's a phrase I hear over and over at the end of each tour:
«The best of Iraq hasn't just been its monuments, but the people we've met.»
And the fact is, although Iraq is the cradle of some of the world's oldest civilisations, its greatest wealth remains the Iraqi people.
Many travellers arrive with a degree of uncertainty. It's completely understandable. For decades, the image portrayed of Iraq has been marked by conflicts and news stories that have little bearing on the reality visitors find today. That's why one of the aspects that excites me most when organising a trip is observing how that perception changes from the very first day.
A few hours travelling around the country are enough to discover spontaneous smiles, sincere greetings and people who go out of their way to make visitors feel at ease. Little by little, fear disappears and is replaced by a feeling difficult to explain in words: that of feeling welcome.
When a landlord refuses to accept payment
There are scenes that are constantly repeated during our tours of Iraq and that continue to surprise me, even after so many trips.
We go into a cafe for a tea or stop at a small local restaurant to try some Iraqi cuisine. We enjoy the moment, we chat with the locals and, when it's time to ask for the bill, the owner simply smiles.
We tried to pay.
We insist once.
After another one.
But the answer is always the same:
«No, you are our guests today.»
No matter how much we try to convince him. On many occasions, the owner of the establishment refuses the money with immense kindness. For him, receiving a foreign visitor is a source of pride and an opportunity to show the best image of his country.
These kinds of gestures are not exceptional. They are experiences we have had on numerous occasions during our travels and which leave a deep impression on those visiting Iraq for the first time.
We live in a world where we're used to paying for everything. That's why it's truly exciting to meet people who simply want to share a moment with you, expecting nothing in return.
It is not about the economic value of a tea or a meal. It’s about the message behind it: «Thank you for coming to see our country.»
And that phrase, although often not spoken, can be perceived in every gesture.
Tea: the simplest way to say «welcome»
If there's one thing that's never in short supply in Iraq, it's a glass of tea.
It doesn't matter if you're visiting a family home, a small business, a cultural centre, or an office. More often than not, before you even begin a conversation, someone will appear with a tray of freshly brewed tea.
For an Iraqi, offering tea is not simply offering a drink. It is a way of expressing respect, hospitality, and closeness.
During our tours, we have visited numerous cultural centres and traditional houses where, as soon as we arrive, we are invited to sit down quietly in a lounge. Without needing to ask for anything, small glasses of tea begin to arrive accompanied by dried fruits, sweets, or traditional pastries.
Nobody expects anything in return.
They just want you to feel comfortable.
Enjoy the moment.
Make yourself at home.
And, interestingly, that's exactly how many of our travellers end up feeling.
One of them said to me at the end of the journey:
«I've travelled to many countries, but I've never been treated with such closeness as in Iraq.»
Another traveller confessed something to me that I still remember very fondly:
«Throughout the entire trip, I felt as though I was visiting family, not a foreign country.»
These are comments that summarise so much better than any tourist guide what travelling through Iraq really means.
As the days go by, the monuments cease to be the sole focus. Little by little, the spotlight shifts to impromptu conversations, to greetings in the street, to smiles from those who simply want to welcome you.
And it's precisely then that many travellers discover the real Iraq.
The mudhifwhere hospitality becomes an age-old tradition
If there is a place that best represents the essence of Iraqi hospitality, it is the mudhif Host.
When we visit the Mesopotamian marshes, one of the experiences that most surprises our travellers is entering one of these traditional buildings constructed entirely from reeds from the marshes themselves. At first glance they may seem like one large open room, but in reality they are much more than that: they constitute the social heart of many communities in southern Iraq.
The mudhif It typically belongs to the sheikh or patriarch of the tribe and remains open all day to receive neighbours, travellers and outsiders alike. It is a place where meetings are held, community matters are resolved, guests are received and, above all, where no one leaves without having been attended to.
As soon as you cross the entrance, you are usually invited to sit down. Within a few minutes, Arabic.
It doesn't matter who you are.
It doesn't matter where you come from.
For them, the mere fact of having arrived this far is already worthy of a welcome.
This tradition reflects a deeply ingrained value in Iraqi culture: The guest is a gift and receiving them is a privilege..
Every time we take our groups on a visit to mudhif, the reaction is usually the same. At first, they observe the reed architecture characteristic of the marshes with curiosity. But a few minutes later, they stop focusing on the building to concentrate on the people who greet them with a smile and invite them to share a moment of conversation.
It's an experience that's difficult to describe until you live it.
And probably, one of the most authentic that a trip through Iraq can offer.
A tradition born in ancient Mesopotamia
Hospitality in Iraq is neither a recent custom nor a practice intended for those visiting the country. It is a way of understanding life that has been passed down from generation to generation for thousands of years.
It is no coincidence that this way of receiving visitors has remained alive precisely in Mesopotamia, a land where some of the first cities, cuneiform writing, and one of history's earliest legal codes were born. For thousands of years, merchants, pilgrims, and travellers crossed these lands, and offering them protection, food, and rest became a symbol of honour that has endured to this day.»
Over the centuries, this tradition was reinforced by tribal and Bedouin culture, where a family’s honour was also measured by the way it treated its guests.
Even today, that philosophy remains very much present in Iraqi society.
For an Iraqi, offering a glass of tea, inviting someone to share a meal, or spending a few minutes in conversation is not a sacrifice. On the contrary, it is a way to show respect and make the visitor feel comfortable.
It is common to hear that «The guest brings a blessing to the house». This idea explains why so many people enjoy welcoming foreign travellers so much and why they go out of their way to show their country in the best possible light.
Anyone who travels to Iraq soon discovers that this hospitality is not dependent on age, city, or social standing. It is a deeply ingrained trait in the identity of the Iraqi people and one of the reasons why so many visitors return home with a completely different image of the country.
A smile that changes the perception of an entire country
There’s something that particularly catches my eye every time I accompany a group of travellers.
During the first few days, I notice a certain degree of caution. It's understandable. Iraq remains a relatively unknown destination, and many people arrive with preconceived notions based on past news reports.
But that feeling doesn’t last long.
One of the travellers who accompanied me through Baghdad told me a phrase that perfectly summarises what is happening:
«What surprised me most was that people were looking for our gaze simply to smile at us.»
And they were right.
In many places, as we stroll through traditional markets, historic streets or along the banks of the River Tigris, people often greet us quite naturally. Some wave to say goodbye. Others simply smile as they pass us by. Sometimes they even wish us a safe journey or ask us which country we’re from, just out of curiosity.
They are small gestures, but they have a huge impact.
Because little by little you stop feeling like a tourist and start feeling like a guest.
And that feeling completely changes the way you experience the journey.
When fear disappears
It's probably one of the prettiest changes I see in every group.
Before I go on a trip, lots of people always ask me the same questions:
«Is it safe?»
«What will people be like?»
«Will people look at us strangely for being foreigners?»
These are completely normal doubts when we talk about a country that is still unknown to a large part of the world.
However, within just a day or two of our arrival, those questions fade away.
The hospitality of the Iraqi people breaks down any prejudice.
Many travellers have confessed to me at the end of the tour that they never imagined they would feel so comfortable in a destination that, before leaving home, had caused them so much doubt.
I particularly remember the comment made by a fellow traveller who, as we said goodbye, said to me:
«Now I understand why you insist so much that one must know Iraq before giving an opinion on it.»
And another traveller added a comment that sums up the experience perfectly:
«I arrived with fear and I leave wanting to return.»
I can't imagine a more fitting description.
Because when a country manages to make visitors feel welcome from the very start, the trip ceases to be merely a succession of sights and becomes a profoundly human experience.
Anbara land where the traveller is welcomed like part of the family
If there is a region where hospitality reaches an almost sacred significance, that is the province of Anbar, situated in western Iraq.
Among many families in this region, there is a deeply-rooted tradition: they believe that a traveller should stay in a private home rather than in a hotel.
For them, opening the doors of their home is part of their identity and honour. Welcoming a guest, sharing food and ensuring they lack for nothing is a responsibility they undertake with pride.
Although nowadays, for organisational and practical reasons, our groups stay in hotels, learning about this tradition helps us to understand just how much hospitality is part of everyday life in Iraq.
It is not a gesture prepared for tourism. It is a way of understanding life that has been passed down from generation to generation and that remains very much present in numerous regions of the country.
What most surprises those who travel with us
After each trip, I like to ask the participants what has surprised them most about Iraq.
Many believe they will respond by talking about Babylon, the marshes of Mesopotamia, Baghdad or the impressive temples and cities they have discovered during the tour.
However, that is almost never the answer.
The phrases I hear most often tend to be very similar to each other.
«I didn’t expect to find such a friendly village.»
«People go out of their way for tourists.»
«It’s a shame that Iraq remains such an unknown country, because the reality is completely different from what I had imagined.»
And perhaps one of the things I’m most excited to hear is what many travellers tell me weeks after returning to Spain:
«"I want to go back to Iraq."»
Not to repeat the same trip.
But rather to discover other regions, explore new cities and continue to get to know a country that has won them over with the warmth of its people.
That is probably the greatest source of satisfaction for me as a travel organiser.
Because it means that Iraq is no longer just a tourist destination, but has become a personal experience.
And there’s another scene that keeps recurring during our tours.
The photographs.
Lots of people are curious to meet foreign travellers and, with great politeness and a big smile, ask if they can have their photo taken with us.
Far from being awkward, our travellers usually look forward to this moment with great enthusiasm, because they understand that it is not simply a tourist gesture, but stems from a sincere desire to share a memory with someone who has chosen to visit their country.
A small gesture that speaks volumes: a hand on the heart
There is a very simple gesture that I always explain to our groups before we set off on our trip, and which perfectly reflects the values of respect and courtesy in Iraqi culture.
It’s very common for someone to offer you a cup of tea, a coffee, fruit, sweets or even a meal.
Most of the time, it’s worth accepting that invitation, because it’s part of the experience of getting to know Iraq and spending a few minutes with the local people.
However, if for any reason you are unable or unwilling to accept what is being offered, there is a very tactful way of turning it down.
All you need to do is say thank you whilst gently placing the right hand over the heart.
It is a gesture commonly used in Iraq and other Middle Eastern countries to convey gratitude, respect and appreciation towards the person who has been kind enough to offer you something.
Far from being seen as rude, the Iraqis fully understand this gesture and appreciate it.
These are small cultural details that allow the traveller to connect much more with the local population and that greatly enrich the experience.
To discover Iraq is to discover its people
When I organise a trip, I make sure that travellers get to discover the country’s great historical treasures, but also that they have time to chat with the locals, stroll at their own pace, sit down for a cup of tea and observe everyday life.
Because I am convinced that you cannot get to know a country simply by visiting its monuments.
You get to know them by listening to their stories.
Sharing a conversation.
Accepting an invitation to have a cup of tea.
Smile back at those who smile at you.
And let hospitality take care of the rest.
If there’s one thing I’d like every traveller to take away from Iraq, it’s not just a photograph of a ziggurat, of Babylon or of the marshes.
I want him to take with him the memory of the people he met.
Because, at the end of the day, it’s the women who turn a lovely trip into an unforgettable one.
Find out about other travellers’ experiences
Over the years, I have been fortunate enough to accompany travellers who have set off with me to discover an Iraq very different from the one they had imagined before they left.
Many of them have wanted to share their experience once the trip was over, talking about what surprised them the most and how it completely changed their perception of the country.
If you’d like to hear their stories and see for yourself what it’s like to travel through Iraq, I invite you to visit our Instagram @journeysacrosscultures. There you’ll find videos, interviews and genuine reviews from people who’ve already travelled around the country with us.
I believe there is no better way to get to know modern-day Iraq than through the eyes of those who have already experienced it.
Conclusion
Iraq is known worldwide as the cradle of civilization. Its ancient cities, archaeological sites, and extraordinary historical legacy attract more and more travellers interested in discovering the origins of our history.
However, after many years of travelling the country and accompanying groups of travellers, I can say with complete sincerity that its greatest treasure is not found solely among the ruins of Babylon, the ziggurats of Mesopotamia or the impressive southern marshes.
Its greatest treasure is its people.
It's that ability to make the stranger feel welcome, to invite you for a cup of tea without expecting anything in return, to smile at you in the street, to open the doors of a mudhif, to want to share a photograph with you, or to make you feel as if you were visiting old friends instead of an unknown country.
Perhaps that's why, when I ask those who have travelled with us what they remember most about Iraq, almost everyone talks first about the people and then about the monuments. Many return to Spain with a completely different image of the country and, not infrequently, with the desire to return to continue discovering new regions and reconnect with the warmth of its people.
Travellers arrive in Iraq to discover the cradle of civilisation. But they return remembering something much simpler and, perhaps for that reason, much more valuable: smiles, conversations shared over tea, photographs with people they've just met, and the feeling of having been welcomed with open arms.
If you're looking for travel to Iraq that allow you to discover its history, its culture, and the extraordinary hospitality of its people, you will find that this country offers an experience difficult to find in any other destination.
Mariam Khalifa Bris
Cultural travel specialist to Iraq
Travels to Iraq – Author's Experiences
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